Information on Goa
Goan sunset
A Portuguese colony until 1961, Goa is now a small state about half way down India's west coast. This goes some way to explaining the alternative atmosphere here. Cut off from British India by a wall of mountains and vast alluvial plains Goa relied on trade with a declining Portuguese Empire, but what was lost in British trade it made up for in Portuguese attitude and it retains a distinctly laid-back feel today.
Hippy adventurers of the late 1960's were drawn to Goa as a haven from more well-travelled routes. Full moon parties and lounging on the beach were the main attractions for visitors wanting to leave the real world behind. The state quickly grew a reputation for its hedonism and liberal attitude under a hot sun that sets in splendour every evening over the Arabian Sea. In recent years the authorities have tried to discourage the hippies and budget backpackers, angling rather for clientele with fatter wallets, and Goa is trying to shake off its image as a hippy hangout.
Increased access to the resort has mean that the typical visitor is now more likely to come from Mumbai via rail or fly in from the UK on the one of the many charter flights available. Winter is the most popular time with tourists still indulging in the traditional pastimes of sunbathing and generally relaxing. Goan cuisine is also a big draw for visitors, a Latin passion for meat and fish is combined with Indian spices to make for exotic dishes, best served with a stunning sunset. Many hotels and resorts have popped up over the last few years to cater for this ever-popular destination, but with more than 25 miles of beautiful sandy beaches there is still plenty of tranquillity to be found.
Anjuna Flea Market
The broad range of goods on sale is aimed at a more commercial clientele than the traditional backpackers. Souvenirs and quality, locally made goods now rep-lace the kaftans and chillums that used to dominate Anjuna Flea Market. Traders from all over India come to sell their wares: Lamani women from Karnataka dressed in their traditional garb sell colourful, elaborately woven clothes, Kashmiri stalls display silver and papier mache boxes and Tibetans preside over orderly rows of sundry Himalayan curios. Even if not planning to haggle for anything the market is a great place to watch the world go by and mingle with bands of musicians, snake charmers, beggars and the inevitable juggling hippies.
Panaji
The state capital is in parts sedate and serene, although at first impressions it does appear to be a busy bus terminal. Situated on the southern banks of the Mandovi River, Panaji only became the capital of Goa in 1843 by when the harbour at Old Goa had silted up and disease had driven its inhabitants out. The best way to explore the town is by foot, wandering around the old cobbled alleyways, colonial villas, red-roofed houses, taverns and cafes, much like any small Portuguese town. There are some wonderful old government buildings; some dating to before colonisation, and some elegant churches. Most memorable is the Church of the Immaculate Conception, which was built in 1541; it is topped with a huge bell that sits between two delicate Baroque-style towers.
Old Goa
Up until 1843 Old Goa used to be the state capital before it moved to Panaji further down river. Once a byword for splendour, with a population of several hundred thousand, Old Goa was virtually abandoned from the 17th century as the river silted up and a series of malaria and cholera epidemics drove out the inhabitants. It takes some imagination to picture the once-great capital as it used to be. The maze of twisting streets, piazzas and grand Portuguese villas have long gone; all that remains are a score of extraordinarily grandiose churches and convents.
Old Goa has been declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco and today is the state's main cultural attraction. Tourists come here from the beach resorts to admire the massive facades and beautiful interiors of the well-preserved churches. The Tuscan St Catherine's Cathedral is the largest church in India and took eighty years to build, finally being consecrated in 1640. The scale and detail of the Corinthian-style interior is overwhelming huge; pillars divide the central nave from the side aisles, and no less than fifteen altars are arranged around the walls. An altar to St Anne treasures the relics of the Blessed Martyrs of Cuncolim, whose failed mission to convert the Moghul emperor Akbar culminated in their murder, while a chapel behind a highly detailed screen holds the Miraculous Cross, which stood in a Goan village until a vision of Christ appeared on it; said to heal the sick, it is now kept in a box, a small opening on the side allows devotees to touch it.
Other sights worth seeing include the Arch of the Viceroys, built in 1597 to commemorate Vasco da Gama's arrival in India, and the distinctive domed Church of St Cajetan (1651), modelled on St Peter's in Rome. Old Goa is a major draw for Christian pilgrims from all over India who come to visit the tomb of St Francis Xavier, the renowned sixteenth-century missionary whose remains are enshrined in the Basilica of Bom Jesus. Buses leave regularly for Old Goa from Panjim. Alternatively visitors can hire an auto-rickshaw or taxi. Guided coach tours can be organised through the tourist office and larger hotels.
