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Bodrum


Originally known as Halicarnassus, the resort of Bodrum is the most attractive resort in southern Aegean Sea, which Homer dubbed the 'land of eternal blue'. The hillside is covered in painted villas adorned with bougainvillea. Narrow streets wind their way down to the sea, and the peaceful setting of its twin harbours offer shelter for yachts. Bodrum is a mustering point for local boats offering tailor-made daytrips to nearby islands or the pristine beaches and seaside restaurants along the magnificent coastline. From its position between the two harbours, the 15th-century crusader Castle of St Peter dominates every part of the town, now home to the fascinating Museum of Underwater Archaeology. The other attraction in town is the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, the crumbling remains of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. As Turkey's leading seaside resort destination, Bodrum is packed with foreign visitors in summer, yet it remains unspoilt and retains its charming Turkish character, perfecting the balance between exotic bazaars, the wailing cry of the muezzin and ancient history, with water sports, sunbathing and a nightlife that is notorious throughout Turkey.

Shopping in Bodrum is an Aladdin's cave of adventure, with many shops and markets lining the winding streets of the resorts. Touts and vendors offer a variety of local goods, from carpets and kilims to leatherwear, gold and silver jewellery, and designer clothing (much of which is fake). Look out for Turkish meershaum pipes and onyx. There is an extensive, colourful craft market in operation on Tuesdays, and a fruit and vegetable market on Fridays. Bargaining is expected and it is customary to haggle down to about half the asking price. In Bodrum some shops stay open late at night, some even all night.

Bodrum has an array of restaurants and gourmet treats available, including seafood, local Turkish cuisine and many international restaurants. Those who prefer to stick to more familiar tastes will find plenty of the usual popular cuisines on offer too, like Italian, Thai, Chinese, Mexican and European. Renowned as the top place in town for typical Turkish is Denizhan, a little out of town between Konacik and Ortakent, easily reached in a dolmus or taxi. For excellent Aegean dishes, especially lamb; Epsilon in the old town is hard to beat. The best pizza in Bodrum is served up with a view on the rooftop terrace of Sunger Pizza, while a good blend of Mediterranean and Californian cuisine can be enjoyed at La Jolla Bistro at Xuma Beach. Also very popular is the Secret Garden near the Marina, where English cooks prepare gourmet Mediterranean fare with flair.

The flamboyant nightlife in Bodrum offers a fabulous mix of cultures with westernised decadent nightclubs beside the Turkish delights of the 'meyhanes', which are local clubs offering eastern promise on balmy summer nights. Most of the bars in Bodrum's mile-long 'Bar Street' (Dr. Alim Bey and Cumhuriyet Street), offer dancing, belly-dancing floor shows, live music and outdoor seating (often on the beach) with a view of the illuminated castle. For clubbers the main place to be is Halikarnas, one of the biggest and swankiest open-air clubs in the world, where the entrance charge matches the volume of the music and brightness of the laser lights. There are plenty of other clubs too, even one on a catamaran that sets sail late at night and takes the party out to sea until the dawn.

Bodrum is situated on the peninsula, with enchanting beaches washed by the crystalline waters of the Aegean Sea, which is the perfect location for a variety of water sports, including scuba diving, jet skiing and scuba diving. Local operators can be found all over the area, renting out equipment, arranging excursions or offering lessons. Aquatic thrills are also on offer at the town's two water parks. Those who grow tired of the sea and sand can put on their walking shoes and take a hike; local walking clubs offer programmes (generally not in the height of the summer season when it is too hot for foot-slogging). There are numerous ways to get out of town and explore the enchanting villages, bays and historic sites in the area. Either hire a car, motor-bike, or bicycle; take a boat/hydrofoil trip; book an organised excursion; a jeep safari; or simply hop on a dolmus (mini-bus). An absolute 'must' on the Turkey experience is to enjoy a 'Hamam' (Turkish bath), complete with massage to soothe the cares away.

Attractions

The natural phenomenon of Pamukkale is a mineral spring, which has existed on a mountain plateau for over thousands of years. The rock formations of Pamukkale ('Cotton Castle') are a series of natural shelves and ridges, terraces that have been turned white from the solidified chalky calcium deposits left behind as the thermal waters tumble into further basins clinging to the cliff edge below. From a distance it appears to be a dazzling white fairytale castle, with a formation of tiers rising from the ground containing warm water pools. The hot springs have been used since Roman times to cure certain ailments. On the plateau is the Pamukkale Thermal enclosing the bubbling 'sacred pool of the ancients', the main source of the springs creating the white terraces, and its mineral waters are open for public bathing. Pamukkale is also the site of the ancient Roman spa-city of Hierapolis, and there are several ruins scattered about the area, including an impressive Roman theatre. It was considered a sacred site for its magic healing waters and was the weekend destination of kings and emperors of the Pergamum and Roman Empires. Telephone: Pamukkale Thermal: (258) 272 2024; Transport: Pamukkale is a five-hour bus journey from Bodrum; Opening time: Open daily. The Pamukkale Thermal is open 8am to 8pm (to 5pm in winter); Admission: US$4, and US$5 for a swim in the mineral water at the Pamukkale Thermal